Harrogate Pubs

This trip was pencilled in months ago, when the cup draw was made. I knew Harrogate to be a good drinking town, having visited on a Blackpool CAMRA trip around 14 years ago. And Harrogate was a new ground – Blackpool previously played there during the COVID season but this was the first time fans had the opportunity to tick it off. I could therefore continue my quest for the 92 football league grounds (depending on what ‘counts’, this could be my 90th – although, by my rules, the tally is lower, as some clubs have moved grounds since I visited). On my last visit, I had been in ‘follow mode’, thus my eyes weren’t focused on my surroundings. Today was to be a much better visit, with plenty to see as we explored Harrogate. It was also officially my (two months belated) birthday trip, as Karen had paid for my transport and match ticket by way of my birthday present.

I met Karen at Blackpool North and we headed to the food kiosk for some breakfast to line our stomachs for the pubby day ahead.

I washed down my butty with an Earl Grey (with milk today) and also purchased a bottle of water for the train.

‘Ooh Harrogate – you’re taking it home!’ observed Karen. I liked that idea.

Eastbound

We boarded the train to York and nattered all the way to Leeds. It was mainly Karen doing the talking, as she’d had a coffee and I’d accidentally had more beers than intended at Cask & Tap the previous night. We passed through a few interesting beery paces en route (Bradford is on the list for next year, when it’s City of Culture).

We had half an hour at Leeds, which is an unfamiliar station to me and one of those huge ones where I can easily get lost (see: Sheffield and Birmingham). I was glad of the lengthy connection, as I’d finished my bottle of water and was also getting a bit peckish again.

The sight of the above was devastating. I had literally JUST chucked my empty bottle, which would now not be making its way home after all.

On the other side of the ticket barriers was an indoor boulevard of shops and eateries. There was too much choice for me so I just followed Karen into Pret (which I do like). They didn’t have any of my favourite veggie brioches in the hot food section so I went for this instead, thinking it would stave my hunger but not put me off my lunch. It did the trick and was very tasty. Would have again.

We ate and drank (another Earl Grey for me, as it was a bit nippy over here) on the concourse before heading off to find Platform 1C.

Poppleton! That sounds so quaint! Like somewhere Postman Pat would deliver to. Just been reading about it on Wikipedia here and it mentions a Poppleton Tigers Junior Football Club. If I was to ever be attacked by a tiger, I’d like it to be a Poppleton Tiger because it sounds like a cartoon tiger.

I spotted a man in a Walthamstow FC hat but before I got chance to ask him if he was off to a match (surely unlikely up here?), Karen marched us up the platform to get a better position to board our train (replatformed to 1b).

Karen told me the name of Harrogate Town’s ground, which I thought was odd.

‘Do they do exorcisms there?’

‘No – it’s Exercise with an E.’

We boarded the train to Poppleton (which actually goes on to York, according to Wikipedia), which was nice and toasty and comfy. It was just another half hour to Harrogate, where we were to begin our exploration of an unfamiliar town.

‘You can tell it’s posh – there’s a man in a fur coat.’

On the station platform, as Karen faffed about putting her not-fur coat on (our arrival caught her by surprise), I peered through a window in the hope it would be the station pub and happily it was, although we had to exit the station to enter the pub.

Harrogate Tap

I went for the Buxton Gatekeeper – a safe 4.1% packed with liquorice flavour and a full body. The other pubs would do well to top this beer.

What a great pub this was. The barman was friendly, it was warm and toasty, the beer was lush. We could have happily stayed here for the duration. But today was an exploratory mission, so that was not an option. Settling in a favourite pub is for future visits.

We had a bit of a walk to the next pub, so I popped for a quick #LooReview. Here, I encountered something new to me: the sink was in the cubicle with the toilet – but the hand drier was outside the cubicle; so basically you had to open the cubicle door with wet hands. Most odd.

Right, let’s get out and about in Harrogate.

I was particularly taken by these snake benches, which were all over Harrogate. I enquired about them with a number of locals, who said they’d never even noticed them. I googled them on the way home and Friends of Valley Gardens confirmed it relates to Harrogate being a spa town:

The serpent symbols were taken from the serpents that entwine the staff of Aesculapius, the Greek God of Health, as they were considered an appropriate decorative device for a health Spa. (Thanks to Malcolm Neesam for this information.)

Apparently they also have these snake benches in Berwick, details of which here.

Right – here’s pub #2.

The Tap on Tower Street

‘Ooh half a Brownie Hunter please!’

‘It’s a chocolate fudge brownie beer.’

‘Ooh yes – sounds right up my street.’

Despite the barmaid trying to talk me out of this beer, I enjoyed it very much indeed. I’ve had it before on keg but the cask version was lusher.

I loved that this pub was brimming with art and culture.

I loved the music in here, which was a cool indie vibe, Starsailor being the highlight. Indeed the music was good in most of the pubs today.

Not hungry just yet but here’s the menu for your perusal.

Even after we’d (again reluctantly) left the pub, it kept on bringing joy.

As we trotted on, I smiled as I spotted this pub, which had rebranded for Christmas:

So Bar & Eats

This was the only non Good Beer Guide pub of the day, selected because of its enticing menu. But let’s order some drinks first.

We found a table and I liked the candle holder thing.

As I logged into the WiFi, an announcement popped up.

‘We’ll send you a present on your special day. When is it?’

I entered my date of birth, forgetting that it was kind of my birthday today, this being my birthday trip.

I hadn’t actually selected what I wanted to eat in advance like I usually do. This was because (a) I’d spent fucking ages simply finding somewhere in Harrogate with an alluring menu; and (b) I wanted EVERYTHING off the menu here. In a bid to narrow down my options, I trained my eye on the Two for One section and hoped that Karen would be up for that (she was, phew, else we could have been here for hours while I was deciding).

I couldn’t resist adding a side order of Indian Tater Tots (got into them after enjoying them at Docks in Grimsby). These were listed as crispy potato, chilli, coriander, pickled onion, spiced ketchup. I started tucking into these just as a taster dish really after I was already full after eating my Yorkie wrap. Dear reader, they blew my mind. This was quite possibly the best dish I’ve had all year. I had to enquire after the perfectly-spiced hot sauce (Korean sauce, apparently). I wanted to devour all of it – but I simply had no room.

‘Do you want a doggy bag?’

‘YES PLEASE!!!’

This made me so happy. I continued to tuck into these incredible tater tots on my crawl round Harrogate. I now want them with me all the time! I wish I’d asked for precise details of that sauce because I need more of it in my life.

The toilets smelled amazing – and this was on the inside of the cubicle door.

I consulted the map for directions to the next pub and spotted the Royal Pump Room Museum, where they offered sulphur water tasting. I wasn’t sure I liked the sound of that, but the place looked pretty grand.

We trotted off down Cold Bath Road.

‘That should smell nice, let’s go in,’ said Karen.

We were hoping for some lovely tobacco aromas but these weren’t forthcoming.

I spied The Olde Sweet Shop and headed over there to see if I could find some Cherry Dr Pepper for Lee (Backlot Cinema’s vending machine had promised this but not delivered).

Alas they didn’t have the pop I wanted but Karen was very excited to find Lindt Creme Brûlée. She’d been looking for this everywhere – including all over Switzerland!

Anyway, back to pubbing.

The Old Bell

I had the Three Swords because I hadn’t tried it before plus fancy pump clip.

The wording at the top states:

WE ARE THE SOLE MAKERS OF FARRAH’S ORIGINAL HARROGATE TOFFEE KNOWN THE WORLD OVER AS THE PUREST AND BEST

And here’s the menu for your perusal.

The music was good in here too, the highlight being Lovely Day by Bill Withers.

Right – time for more exploring.

We were lured into this bookshop by the tangerine display and Stanley Matthews book in the window.

It turned out to be a first editions bookshop (we’re not in Kansas any more). There was a Famous Five book on sale for £4,500. I love books but wow! So this is what rich people spend their money on…

The quirky shop next door – Lighthouse Lane – was more my bag.

Yes, yes, we’re coming to the next pub. There’s just so much to look at here in this time-travelling parallel-universe wonderland.

‘It may be the north – but not as we know it.’

Karen hit the nail on the head there.

Starling

This cafe bar was not very pubby but I loved that it embraced the starling theme.

Next up was somewhere we’d passed on the way here but it wasn’t open yet. The next two pubs (plus The Devonshire Tap House, which we didn’t make it to) didn’t open until 4pm, which is why they’re later visits.

Major Tom’s Social

The below photo does not do the view justice.

I was first intrigued by the strange green glowing object on the roof of the building on the right. Was this from another planet (I actually felt like I was on one myself today!)?

On the horizon were the domes of the stunning Majestic Hotel (I had to ask). Apparently it’s haunted following a servants quarters fire and people daren’t go in there. Perhaps an added adventure for my next visit (I already knew I wanted to come back here – for the tater tots alone).

We popped into the vintage shop downstairs for a nose.

I loved Ladybird books as a kid – and could never leave Woolies without one.

The below was spotted in the window of an art shop further along in our walk.

Have you watched The Batman (movie) and The Penguin (series) btw? Both bloody brilliant.

The Little Ale House

We were intrigued by the front door – had this previously been a prison door?

I enquired of the barman, who confirmed that the door had been custom-made for the pub. This was in fitting with the general quirkiness of Harrogate that was endearing me to this wonderful spa town.

There were a couple of fellow Blackpool fans here and we joined them at their table. I got a strange look when I mentioned my doggy bag (rat box) of tater tots. To be honest, I’d never even considered the prospect of a doggy bag until my friend asked for one in Akash during COVID. Then it all made sense. I had enjoyed what I’d had of the meal but I only have a small appetite (or my belly is full of beer, whatevs) – so why not take the rest away to enjoy again later? After all, it’s paid for.

What’s that? Time for another #LooReview?

I must point out that there was absolutely nothing wrong whatsoever with the condition of the toilets. This sign reminded me of the sign on the toilet door at Ewood Park back in 2002, apologising that there was no hot water (at the time, being a lower league football fan, I had no idea that hot water at football grounds was a thing).

This was a wonderfully cosy, toasty pub that felt like home, like a micropub should do.

The next – and final – pub on my list had been The Devonshire Tap House. However, having been revisiting our pub day so far with our companions in here – and raving about how good the first two were in particular – we resolved to revisit one of those. They were also more in the direction of the ground, which would be our next and final destination of the day. I had thought we were heading to the Tap on Tower Street but Karen favoured the Harrogate Tap, which was where we knew a few other Seasiders were congregating, so that made sense.

‘It’s behind you!’ Karen hollered, as I was taking the above photo.

What was Karen on about?

Harrogate Tap (again)

It was much busier – indeed bustling – in here now. The friendly barman remembered us from earlier and I told him that we were back after visiting seven pubs because his beer was the best (I had that lush liquorice porter again).

We joined the Yorkshire Seasiders at their table as we continued to immerse ourselves in company now our social batteries had been replenished with the consumption of beer.

Soon it was time to head off to the ground. I’d have walked it but Karen fancied a taxi, which was easily sorted, as there was a rank across the road. Seemingly within seconds of getting in, we were pulling up outside the ground.

Harrogate Town v Blackpool

Google Maps had confirmed that there were no pubs near the ground – instead a care home, a hospital, a Mormon church, a trailer park, an ambulance station and a dog walking service called Jurassic Bark.

Obvs I wasn’t hungry as I’d been munching on my tater tots all afternoon but here’s the menu for your delectation.

I did, however, join the queue for the refreshment kiosk because I had time to kill and was worried about being cold. I wasn’t convinced I had enough layers on for a night match – it had been bloody freezing on Leeds station (colder than Preston station) this morning.

The queue management system was interesting here – and something I have never experienced at a football ground before. Towards the front of the queue was a man with a card reader, taking orders and payment before people reached the counter. Then, on reaching the counter, orders were quickly despatched by the staff who didn’t have to faff about taking orders and payments. Here’s what I ordered.

I was pleased that Karen had bought tickets for the seating area. One of the reasons I haven’t been attending the away games that I have loved/suffered for so many years is people (post-COVID) standing up in the seating area (even in the front seats) and thus forcing me to do so if I want to see the match. These separate areas (not often a thing now, with so many stadiums being all-seater) meant that those who wanted to stand could do so on the terrace, but we who wanted to sit could actually do so. This made for a much more enjoyable (and less frustrating) experience for me.

This was a Football League Trophy match (soz, can’t be arsed keeping up with the sponsors – it will always be the LDV to me). Actually, even the Football League has been rebranded, hasn’t it, so it’s technically the EFL Trophy now. Whatevs.

Anyway, the first half dragged. Harrogate were 2-0 up at half time (both goals at our end) but the good news was we were nicely sheltered from the cold at the back of this stand. I therefore wasn’t for moving at half time, so delegated the purchase of the second (preventative) Bovril to Karen, who was heading down that way anyway. Happily, my tactic of not drinking too much in terms of volume (as well as ABV) this afternoon meant that I didn’t need a half-time wee either. I observed that Harrogate’s PA system was very clear and thus much better than Blackpool’s (not difficult).

The second half got better with the introduction of a few subs for Blackpool, which turned the game on its head. We took full advantage of one of theirs arguably time-wasting but possibly actually injured on the flank, Rob Apter tearing through and setting up Jordan Rhodes to pull one back. Just as I was walking round for my pre-coach wee towards the end, I found myself right behind the goal as Ryan Finnigan’s piledriver hit the back of the net. So that was 2-2 and penalties on the cards.

Meanwhile, #LooReview time! First of all, I noted that they had a stoma toilet, which is something I’d never seen before (Bethany from Corrie would have been sorted). Also: what the hell is the fourth image on this sanitary disposal unit?

Now having seen four goals at our end, we couldn’t really complain that the penalties were to be taken at the other end. From our vantage point, however, we did get to observe our goalkeeping coach, Steve Banks, indicating to our keeper, Harry Tyrer, which way the Harrogate players were likely to take their penalties. Anyway, it didn’t actually matter who won the shootout – Harrogate had to win in normal time to progress, and we only needed a draw – but, if we won on pens, that would guarantee a home tie in the next round. I don’t understand either but I’m content that I don’t need to. That said, I did actually get a job in 1995 on the basis that I could explain Blackpool’s qualification in this tournament, so it’s perhaps worth getting to grips with this as you never know when it might come in handy.

Anyway, we won on pens and it hadn’t really been that cold at all (although I did get significantly colder after my #LooReview, proving my decision to stay put at half time to be a sensible one). It had also been nice to catch up with a few pals that I hadn’t seen in ages. The football family will always be there.

The match highlights are here:

Westbound

We boarded the Blackpool Supporters Association coach back to Blackpool (as if there were trains at this time). Trophy matches kick off at 7pm, so we were hopeful of an 11pm arrival back home.

As I hadn’t got leathered today (just a half in each of 8 pubs over 6 hours), I was able to read on the coach home and actually remember what I’d read (usually impossible after one pint). I therefore finished reading Writing in the House of Dreams by Jenny Alexander (from which I have learned how to continue a dream I’ve woken up from – next stop lucid dreaming). I updated my Goodreads (I’m BlackpoolJane on there if you want to add me) and it popped up with a message of congratulations that I had reached my target of 100 books read in 2024. That wasn’t to stop me reading, of course, and I immediately began my next book, This Was a Man by Jeffrey Archer.

Not long after 11, we arrived back in Blackpool and Lee collected me and took me safely home. That had been a most enjoyable day out, exploring a fabulously quirky northern town, drinking good beer in good pubs and catching up with good people. This was a good reminder as to why I have enjoyed/endured football for so long. Thank you Harrogate.

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